Location: Pernand-Vergelesses, France
Wines that are difficult to describe and difficult to obtain.
The story goes that Emperor Charlemange donated the area to the Abbey of Saulieu in the year 775, and its boundaries have remained in place ever since. It is also the story that the Emperor’s wife convinced him that white grapes were preferable to red to save his beard from being stained. Perhaps that explains how Chardonnay grapes came to be grown in what is otherwise Pinot Noir territory.
The region of Corton-Charlemagne was under control of the church until the French Revolution, when it was acquired by Rene Bonneau du Martay. Childless, Rene forwarded the estate – almost 24 hectares of vines – to his niece Comtesse Jean le Bault de la Moriniere, whose husband Jean took over in 1969. It was Jean who was responsible for the estate’s renaissance, restoring the property to its former grandeur, and making a number of improvements to the winery, including enlarging the cuverie and cellars, and installing temperature-controlled steel tanks. More importantly, however, he also began to estate-bottle the wine (which had previously been sold to negociants), giving him total control over quality.
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Orginally from Cadiz, her love for the Mencía grape brought her to Bierzo in Galicia, Spain. Since then, Veronica has quickly become a reference winemaker in the region as she balances between the classic and natural expression of Bierzo. Veronica has worked in several places throughout Europe before settling in Valtuille de Abajo in 2012. here, she worked alongside Raúl Pérez in his winery where she made her first couple vintages until moving into her own winery.
The Savart estate is located 10 kilometers west of Reims, at Ecueil near Montagne de Reims. Here, Frederic has taken over his father’s vineyard consisting of 4ha of Pinot Noir and a touch of Chardonnay. His philosophy in the vineyards is to prevent disease as much as possible, rather than treat it. He prefers a holistic approach, creating an environment within which the plant is better equipped to resist malady on its own.
In the cellar of the family run Domaine Mader located in the heart of Alsace, there is a small sign hanging just below one of the windows saying “Nos vins sont sec” – Our wines are dry. This is a pretty acute statement from Jérôme Mader, who has been running the estate since 2005.
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